This section includes Zhongyi (中衣) and Zhongku (中裤).
Size range: Zhongyi (155/80A to 185/104A), Zhongku (155/64A to 185/88A)
Please read the introduction of the topic and how to use this guide in advance.
Introduction
Zhongyi, also known as Liyi, is worn outside of underwear and within outerwear (the Chinese meaning of 中 is equivalent to the middle), and its role is similar to that of a shirt in modern clothing, which can be used to match and complement the role of Zhongyi. Zhongyi cannot be worn outside, and in addition to playing the role of a shirt, it can also be used as home wear and pajamas.
The Zhongyi illustrated in this section is the common cross-collar arrow-sleeved Zhongyi, while the broad Zhongyi also includes Zhongdan (中单), Zhongku (中裤, pants), and Zhognqun (中裙, skirts).
Zhongyi common fabric types are cotton, cotton linen, chiffon, monochrome satin, etc. In addition to the most commonly used white fabric, girls can also choose colored fabrics when they match the Ruqun, the colors of which are bright green, soft yellow, peach, purple and gray, etc. Men wearing Pan collar robe with Zhongyi can also choose red.
Because Zhongyi’s body and collar than the outer clothing are more fitted, the collar edge is slightly higher than the outer clothing, so wearing the outer clothing will often show a little Zhongyi’s collar. For the convenience of movement and beauty, the sleeves of Zhongyi are often shorter than those of outerwear, and the sleeve type of Zhongyi worn with everyday clothes is mostly arrow sleeves or straight sleeves, while the sleeve type of Zhongyi worn with wide sleeves formal dresses are mostly wide sleeves.
The Zhongku shown in this section is mainly for matching Zhongyi, for example, men wear Zhongyi and Zhongku, which can be matched with outerwear such as Daopao, Zhiduo, and Pan collar robes on the outside. Although women’s clothing in Hanfu is mainly skirts, they can also wear Zhongku and then wear skirts outside.
Size chart
Zhongyi (中衣)
1. 155/80A
155/80A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
155/80A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
155/80A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
155/80A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
2. 160/84A
160/84A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
160/84A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
160/84A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
160/84A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
3. 165/88A
165/88A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
165/88A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
165/88A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
165/88A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
4. 170/92A
170/92A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
170/92A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
170/92A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
170/92A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
5. 175/96A
175/96A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
175/96A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
175/96A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
175/96A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
6. 180/100A
180/100A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
180/100A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
180/100A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
180/100A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
7. 185/104A
185/104A Zhongyi Appearance Drawings
185/104A Zhongyi Perspective Drawings
185/104A Zhongyi Expansion Drawings
185/104A Zhongyi Detail Size Drawings
Zhongku (中裤)
1. 155/64A
155/64A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
155/64A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
2. 160/68A
160/68A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
160/68A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
3. 165/72A
165/72A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
165/72A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
4. 170/76A
170/76A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
170/76A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
5. 175/80A
175/80A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
175/80A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
6. 180/84A
180/84A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
180/84A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
7. 185/88A
185/88A Zhongku Appearance Drawings
185/88A Zhongku Detail Size Drawings
More Hanfu Style Making
Section 2: How to make Aoqun (袄裙)
Section 3: How to make Ruqun (襦裙)
Section 4: How to make Beizi (褙子)
Section 5: How to make Pan collar Aoqun (盘领袄)
Section 6: How to make Quju (曲裾)
Section 7: How to make Banbi (半臂)
Section 8: How to make Shuhe (裋褐)
Section 9: How to make Zhiduo Zhishen Daopao (直裰/直身/道袍)
Section 10: How to make Panling Pao and Lanshan (盘领袍/襕衫)
Section 11: How to make Shenyi (深衣)
Section 12: How to make Yisan (曳撒)
Section 13: How to make improved Hanfu (改良汉服)
My question is: why in zhongyi the right placket (inner) is shorter than the left one (that is outside)? It would not reach the other side then, where to fasten the ties?
I am a big man and I want to make the Zhongku for myself. I’m having a hard time converting these to my measurements (not on the chart). Would someone be willing to help me convert this to my size?
First measure your waist/hip (where the waistband of your pants sits, don’t measure while wearing pants though) then divide that by 4. This is your pants width measurement.
Next measure from your waistband to your ankle, add 10 cm (or 4in if using inches). This is your pants length measurement.
Next your waistband width (which is called “pant waist width” on the size chart) you can probably go with 7cm wide or you can go up to 7.5 or 8cm. The wider your waistband is though the more likely it is to roll up on itself in my experience, I would recommend going no wider than 7.5cm (this is about equal to 3in).
For the crotch triangle piece measure your “seat”, basically sit on a hard firm chair and measure the distance from your waistband to the seat of the chair. This is how long the short side of the crotch piece is, the long side will be the same as your pants length.
The rest is all geometry good luck!
Why is always one side of the crotch bigger in the “detail size drawings”?
I ended up buying a roll of blank pattern paper, measuring out the pattern pieces with a ruler and hand drawing them with a pen. Luckily most of the pattern is geometric straight lines, so the zhongyi has been coming together well.
Can u please share ur draft ? It will be very helpful to figure things out… Thank you!!
Can u please share ur drafted pattern ?
Hi ! Is it possible to share ur pattern draft? I am new to patternmaking it will be very helpful…Thank u..:)
How are people printing/ drawing the patterns onto paper I’m a little confused
How to assemble the middle trousers?
Os padrões são lindos, mas eu gostaria de uma explicação mais detalhada se possível, obg
Thank you so much! You eased my work a lot! I’m doing hanfu as a hobby) Special thanks to all the measurements!!!
Nice patterns! It helped a lot! I have a question though: how were seams finished? i used the trim down one side of the seam and wrap the other side over and whip stitch it down. But it felt a little western.
This! I am having the same issue, did you find an answer?
Alas, no. :p But I did settle for practical, western or not, it stopped fraying.^^
Very detailed pattern, but making hanfu is still too difficult for me.😭😭